Formula De(canceled, now league only)

For completed/abandoned Mish Mash Games.
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Formula De(canceled, now league only)

Post Post #0 (ISO) » Sat Aug 05, 2017 7:22 pm

Post by TwoInAMillion »

Image

This is a formula one car racing board game. The rules are here:

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid= ... DQ5M2NkNjk

It's been awhile since I have played it so I'm not sure how effective I would be at modding it, but I thought it would be fun to give it a try. If anyone here has more experience than me and wants to mod I would gladly let them.

Here is the most up to date track image:

Image

There can be a minimum of 4 players and a maximum of 10 players. An ideal situation would be to do this as a league and have multiple races to determine a champion.
Inspiratieloos
Tyres: 5/6
Brakes: 4
Gearbox: 3
Bodywork: 2
Engine: 3
Road Handling: 2

Aurathebirb
Tyres: 3/4
Brakes: 4
Gearbox: 3
Bodywork: 4
Engine: 3
Road Handling: 2

randommidget
Tyres: 4/5
Breaks: 3
Gearbox: 4
Bodywork: 3
Engine: 3
Road Handling: 2

Aronis
Tyres: 4/6
Breaks: 4
Gearbox: 3
Bodywork: 3
Engine: 3
Road Handling: 2

TwoInAMillion
Tyres: 2/5
Breaks: 4
Gearbox: 4
Bodywork: 3
Engine: 2
Road Handling: 2

JDGA
Tires: 1/4
Brakes: 4
Gearbox: 4
Bodywork: 2/3
Engine: 3
Handling: 2

realeo
Tyres: 5/6
Breaks: 3
Gearbox: 4
Bodywork: 3
Engine: 2
Road Handling: 2


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Last edited by TwoInAMillion on Sun Oct 01, 2017 2:09 pm, edited 143 times in total.
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Post Post #1 (ISO) » Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:45 pm

Post by TwoInAMillion »

The basis of Formula De is that you start in 1st gear, and then move up or down in gears depending on how fast you want to go. The gear table is as follows:

1st gear: 1 or 2 spaces(1=1, 2=2) 2 sided(1D2)
2nd gear: 2-4 spaces(1=2, 2=3, 3=4) 3 sided (1D3+1)
3rd gear: 4-8 spaces(1=4, 2=5, 3=6, 4=7, 5=8) 5 sided(1D5+3)
4th gear: 7-12 spaces(1=7, 2=8, 3=9, 4=10, 5=11, 6-12) 6 sided(1D6+6)
5th gear: 11-20 spaces(1=11, 2=12, 3=13, 4=14, 5=15, 6=16, 7=17, 8=18, 9=19, 10=20) 10 sided(1D10+10)
6th gear: 21-30 spaces(1=21, 2=22, 3=23, 4=24, 5=25, 6=26, 7=27, 8=28, 9=29, 10=30) 10 sided(1D10+20)

the "black die" is 20 sided and used for starts and other events.

you may go up in gear one gear per turn, or may go down in gear up to four gears per turn.

The Start:
Before making their first turn, the player rolls a 20 sided a die.
a "1" is a fail, and the player must wait until next turn to start moving.
a "20" is a super start and the player may move 4 squares for free.
anything else is normal and the player starts normally.

Downshifting one causes no penalty
Downshifting two(e.g. 6th to 4th) causes a loss of one gas point.
Downshifting three(e.g. 6th to 3rd) causes a loss of one gas point and one break point.
Downshifting four(e.g. 6th to 2nd) causes a loss of one gas point, one break point, and one engine point.

Car configuration:
There are eight catagories which you can use to configure your car:
OVERSHOOTING, BREAKING, BLOCKING, HEAVY DOWNSHIFTING, COLLISION, ENGINE BLOW, HANDLING, and CONCRETE WALL.

OVERSHOOTING: Not ending your turn in the corners as required.
BREAKING: Slowing down to a stop or near stop.
HEAVY DOWNSHIFTING: Shifting down in gears to slow down.
COLLISION: Ramming another car.
ENGINE BLOW: Driving too fast.
HANDLING: Driving over a "dangerous" part of the track(due to previous incidents)
CONCRETE WALL: Certain tracks have concrete walls that must be maneuvered around and can cause damage.

Each driver has 20 life points to spend on the 8 categories and must spend at least one point on each.
Last edited by TwoInAMillion on Mon Aug 07, 2017 2:04 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Post Post #2 (ISO) » Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:54 pm

Post by TwoInAMillion »

Original Roll String: 1d5 (STATIC)
1 5-Sided Dice: (1) = 1


Here is a playthrough on YouTube if anyone wants to watch it:
https://youtu.be/7xi6FQv6F8k
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Post Post #3 (ISO) » Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:20 pm

Post by Aurathebirb »

/in

Saw on tabletop and it seemed like a fun game. Will wait a bit to think about my stats.
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Post Post #4 (ISO) » Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:30 pm

Post by TwoInAMillion »

Yeah it is definately fun to play in real life, haven't tried on a forum before. Perhaps we can do a practice race in the near future to work everything out.
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Post Post #5 (ISO) » Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:38 pm

Post by inspiratieloos »

/in

Considered suggesting this game to someone else, might as well try it myself.
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Post Post #6 (ISO) » Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:49 pm

Post by TwoInAMillion »

Should we do a practice with 3 or wait for a 4th?
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Post Post #7 (ISO) » Sat Aug 05, 2017 11:59 pm

Post by Randomnamechange »

/in
played it on tabletop and its rly good fun
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Post Post #8 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 12:00 am

Post by inspiratieloos »

The rulebook you posted seems to be for high level tournament play, is that intentional?
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Post Post #9 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 12:02 am

Post by Randomnamechange »

oh wait this is the complicated version i havent played this
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Post Post #10 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:02 am

Post by inspiratieloos »

Well, I haven't even played the basic version, so you're in good company.
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Post Post #11 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:03 am

Post by inspiratieloos »

Looking through it it seems the tournament rules are mostly just advanced play with all the optional components.
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Post Post #12 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:33 am

Post by Xalxe »

I'll drive the cars vroom vroom

Here's the normal rules which I find easier to read.
"I, too, would prefer to know the Xalxe of my demise." - Felissan, 2022
- On this day in history: mundanity, and terror, and food, and love, and trees -
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Post Post #13 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 2:44 am

Post by inspiratieloos »

There's a few differences though and I assume we're at least playing advanced.

From what I can see:
1. Weather is changed a bit, there is good/changeable which is the same as normal changeable and changeable weather retains the properties of the previous weather.
2. Road hazards can be treated as other cars for purposes of zigzagging.
3. There is aggravated collisions, which happen when you hit a stationary car and has higher chance of damage. If someone is eliminated due to a collision it also causes unavoidable damage.
4. A car that is eliminated due to engine damage will take one more move in 4th gear and leave a hazard both where the engine broke down and where it stopped. (if a car loses it's engine after the penultimate corner they're allowed to try and finish the race but must downshift each turn.)

There might be more changes though.
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Post Post #14 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:30 am

Post by TwoInAMillion »

Okay so we need to choose car color and start position:

Twoinamillion, Aura, random, inspir
Original Roll String: 4d20
4 20-Sided Dice: (12, 5, 4, 5) = 26

Original Roll String: 4d20
4 20-Sided Dice: (11, 6, 2, 6) = 25
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Post Post #15 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:33 am

Post by TwoInAMillion »

So car color choice is the following order: inspir, random, Two, Aura

Starting position is the following order: inspir, Aura, Two, random

inspir can go ahead with his car color now, the colors are: Blue, White, Green, Yellow, Red, Blue, Black, Orange, Purple, Grey

And we need the car configurations.
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Post Post #16 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:39 am

Post by TwoInAMillion »

In post 12, Xalxe wrote:I'll drive the cars vroom vroom

Here's the normal rules which I find easier to read.
Yes, that is much easier to read.
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Post Post #17 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:41 am

Post by TwoInAMillion »

Evidently you do not configure your cars, each car has 18 WP that are used when something happens to the car.

Overshooting is 1 WP per square
Breaking is 1 WP per square
Downshifting is 1 WP per shift skipped
Collisions lose 1 WP on a roll of 1-4 on a 20 sided die
If a player rolls 20 in 5th or a 30 in 6th gear they lose 1 WP on a roll of 1-4 of a 20 sided die
A player may regain all his WP with a pit stop.
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Post Post #18 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:46 am

Post by Aronis »

can i join or is it too late?
i'm fine w/ starting/picking last
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Post Post #19 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:47 am

Post by TwoInAMillion »

I will assume people want to start on the inside of the track to speed things up.
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Post Post #20 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:47 am

Post by TwoInAMillion »

In post 18, Aronis wrote:can i join or is it too late?
i'm fine w/ starting/picking last
You can join. Glad to have you.
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Post Post #21 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:48 am

Post by TwoInAMillion »

I will reroll the starting grid.

Twoinamillion, Aura, random, inspir, Aronis
Original Roll String: 5d20
5 20-Sided Dice: (9, 16, 2, 16, 4) = 47
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Post Post #22 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:49 am

Post by TwoInAMillion »

Starting grid is Inspir, Aura, random, Aronis, Two
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Post Post #23 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:55 am

Post by TwoInAMillion »

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Post Post #24 (ISO) » Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:56 am

Post by TwoInAMillion »

Once players have picked their colors the squares will be marked by the color rather than the letters.
A bad start is a "1" on a 20 sided dice. A good start is 17-20 on a 20 sided dice.
The number in the yellow circles in the corners. A "1" or a "2" or a "3" indicates how many times you must end a turn in that corner area to avoid overshooting.
It is a 2 lap race. Whoever gets to the finish line first wins.

When stating what square you are moving to, use the corner number as your reference point. The small area before the first turn is Precorner or P, so you could say you want to move to PR2 to move to the precorner, right lane, 2nd square. Once you get to corner 1, you would say 1L5 for 1st corner, left lane square 5 for example, until you get to the second corner, where you would use 2C3 for 2nd corner, center lane, 3rd square, for example. Make sense?
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